How did kringle become so big in Wisconsin — and why is it nearly unique to our state? (2024)

Wisconsin is a foodie state. Most notably, we are known for the Dairy State trio of beer, brats and cheese.

But around the holiday season, it's a particular dessert that takes center stage at many gatherings: kringle, Wisconsin's state pastry.

But what the heck is kringle, and why is it so popular here —and seemingly unknown in other areas of the country? We're answering that question as part of What the Wisconsin, a series where reporters take on questions about our state, our communities and the people in them.

Here's what you should know about the oval-shaped treat.

What is kringle?

Kringle is a Danish pastry, or Danish, that has a flaky, buttery dough with a filling at its center and topped with frosting or sugar.

Most U.S. bakeries produce kringle in a long, flat, oval shape, with a hole in the center. They're meant to be shared, so most are around 10 to 15 inches long. It is often served as a treat at family and friend gatherings and office events (including at the Journal Sentinel).

It's most often eaten around breakfast, though it is good any time of day.

What is the history of kringle, and how did it come to Wisconsin?

Racine has a large Danish community, dating back to the 1840s. Back then, 10 percent of all Danes that immigrated to the U.S. lived in Racine, according to Eric Olesen, president of the popular O&H Danish Bakery in Racine, which opened in 1949.

Cooking is a large part of Danish culture, which can be best explained by the Danish term hygge. Pronounced "hoo-ga," it means taking time away from the daily rush to relax and enjoy life's quieter pleasures, either with people you care about or by yourself, according to the country of Denmark's website.

More: What the Wisconsin? Ask us your questions about the weird and wonderful sides of our state.

Danish baking prominence was born around 1850, Olesen said. At the time, Danish bakers went on strike, so bakers from Austria were brought to Denmark to fill in. New techniques were introduced like dough folding. This led to the creation of new types of pastries, and the process of adding fruits and fillings.

It's estimated that Danish settlers first brought kringle to Racine around 1900.

Which bakery made kringle famous in Racine?

It wasn't one bakery. In the early 1900s and throughout the 20th century, there were, to use a baking measurement, dozens of Danish bakeries in Racine.

While some have come and gone over the years, many longtime bakeries still stand. There are bigger operations like Racine Danish Kringle and O&H Danish Bakery that ship internationally and local shops like Bendtsen's Bakery and Larsen Bakery that have been staples for decades.

How has kringle changed over the decades in Racine?

Kringle today doesn’t look like the kringle that was first baked in Racine bakeries.

Kringle was originally made in a pretzel shape, according to Olesen. The oval shape we know today is a Danish-American innovation from Racine in the 1900s.

You can still find both today, but you'll find the oval shape primarily in the U.S.

“If you have a pretzel shape, you’ve got all these overlapping knots and a lot of different spaces where there’s less filling and less topping,” he said. An oval shape allows for almost every piece to be the same.

There also weren’t as many flavors originally. The predominant original fillings were almond, dried currants and raisins. These were topped with a dusting of sugar instead of frosting.

Olesen said that frosting began to be requested more than sugar starting around the 1960s. O&H still offers sugar-topped kringle, but they sell about one of those for every 200 or 300 with frosting.

Today, there are seemingly endless flavors, from cheesecake, apple, pecan and raspberry to seasonal flavors like Brandy Old Fashioned and Christmas Fudge.

Is there an official kringle-making process?

“If you give 10 bakers one recipe, they’re all going to have a little different product,” Olesen said.

O&H and Racine Danish Kringle use different methods, but both describe it as a three-day, labor-intensive process. The basics include butter being rolled into dough and refrigerated overnight. The dough is rolled again on day two before being returned to the refrigerator. On the third day, the dough is rolled out thinly and fillings are added, then the flakiness is created via the baking process.

Other kringle makers add more butter on day two. Some shape the dough into an oval by hand or fill the pastries by hand. Others automate the process.

More: Why does Wisconsin drink so much brandy? Our love affair with the spirit — and fruity Old-Fashioneds — isn't as old as you might think.

Just how big of a deal is kringle in Wisconsin?

Kringle became the official state pastry in 2013 as part of the state's budget.

Pasty proponents urged former Gov. Scott Walker not to veto that part of the budget, saying that the kringle designation would boost Racine's economy and put southeast Wisconsin "on the culinary map," according to the Associated Press.

That happened about two years after the state Senate passed a proposal to make the cream puff the state dessert. That title is still on the table, since the proposal didn't make it through the Assembly.

Racine is considered the kringle capital of the U.S., according to Visit Racine County.

Can you find kringle outside of Wisconsin?

You can find kringle from Racine on all seven continents, according to Olesen, who has shipped kringle as far as Antartica. Bakeries like Racine Danish Kringle and O&H began mailing kringle around the 1950s. That business has only boomed with the internet and has led to the oval kringles being shipped all over the world.

Yet kringle is still a mostly Wisconsin delicacy. While you can find it around the country if you truly seek it out, it's not quite as well known outside of the state ... yet.

“It’s still relatively unknown,” Olesen said. “It’s a big country. ... A lot of foodies might know it, but I don’t think it’s quite up there with brats and cheese.”

Marie Heyer, director of marketing for Racine Danish Kringle, said "nobody knew what it was" when she lived in California.

“When my parents shipped it out to us, everyone was always excited.”

Should kringle be served hot or cold?

According to Olesen, kringle can be served at room temperature. However, he also recommends trying it warmed up. Heat the oven up to 350 degrees and put the kringle in for three to five minutes. Ice cream is optional.

How many kringles are sold during the holiday season?

Olesen didn’t have exact numbers but said O&H locations will sell around 10,000 to 15,000 kringles in the stores alone every week. That does not include mail orders or kringles made for wholesale customers like Trader Joe’s.

“We have people coming to our stores with their suitcases on the way to the airport and stuffing them with kringle for their holiday celebrations,” Olesen said.

Heyer said Racine Danish Kringle makes 10,000 to 12,000 kringle a day during the holiday season. They sell many through retailers like Pick'n Save, Meier, Aldi and Costco and also do send online orders around the U.S., Canada and Puerto Rico.

Drew Dawson can be reached at ddawson@jrn.com or 262-289-1324.